Car alarms and remote start explanation

[autotoys]

This is an introduction and explanation of the products found in our car alarms section here


* please feel free to join in the conversation with any questions


Car alarms
At the very basic are car alarms, found here http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=49

The remotes that come with your car are USUALLY not an car alarm. They may honk your horn, but they rarely will protect your car from being broken into.

Here are the reasons why

1. Factory keyless systems are Just keyless systems. They unlock and lock the door and honk the horn. Some will sound the horn if a car is opened without unlocking but MOST DO NOT

2. AFTERMARKET car alarms systems can DETECT TOWING, MOTION, Someone breaking the glass, all open points of entry, jacking, hook opening and much more that a factory system cannot

3. Thieves give NO RESPECT to factory systems because they can EASILY be disarmed. MOST can simply be disarmed by just TURNING ON THE KEY (try it) to the IGNITION POSITION

factory systems do not offer STARTER KILLS. Thieves know that breaking a window on a factory system will not set off the alarm. They break the window, climb in and never set off your alarm. They then jam out your ignition lock, put the key in the ignition position and WHAMO it is off!

factory systems are ALWAYS in the SAME PLACE. If you worked in one car, stole one car, you will know where to find the factory security system. AFTERMARKET SYSTEMS are DIFFERENT from CAR TO CAR and from INSTALLER TO INSTALLER

Thieves will KNOW if it is an aftermarket system because the security light is NEVER in the FACTORY LOCATION (SAME PLACE) and will usually walk away and pick an easier car because AFTERMARKET systems are like UNKNOWN TERRITORY

4. Factory systems do not offer any discounts in insurance. AFTERMARKET systems will because they can be programmed to be PASSIVE (turn on by itself after you close the door). and they can also include a STARTER KILL which offers you an additional discount.

5. AFTERMARKET systems SOUND A SIREN, it is MUCH DIFFERENT than a car horn.

6. Aftermarket Car alarms offer WAY WAY WAY WAY better range than any factory keyless entry system can. MUCH BETTER RANGE

7. Aftermarket systems can be tied to EXTRA SENSORS to set off at your whim
See sensors here http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=104

8. Aftermarket systems can pop trunks or also roll up windows
See those here
http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=107
and
http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=173

9. You can add as many LEDS lights as you want to aftermarket systems
See http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=211

10. If you do not have POWER DOORLOCKS in your car already, with an aftermarket system you can add POWER DOORLOCKS at the same time! See http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=91

11. You can also add a REMOTE START at the same time! (see below



REMOTE STARTS

We offer 4 types of remote start systems here

http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=10

We will break it down to you:

1 WAY means that you send a signal out to the car and it will receive it and it will START THE CAR

2 WAY means that you send a signal out to the car, it will receive it and then SEND A CONFIRMATION back to YOUR REMOTE that it has started, opened a door or something else. (no need to look out the window)

We then have

STAND ALONE remote starts which are REMOTE START only (NO ALARM)

and then

ALARMS with REMOTE START which is a REMOTE start and also GIVES YOU SECURITY with remote start

so the 4 types are

1 WAY REMOTE START ONLY
2 WAY REMOTE START ONLY
1 WAY REMOTE START AND ALARM
2 WAY REMOTE START AND ALARM

We carry every type of alarm and remote start at the best prices.

You need to decide what is best for you, installing an alarm with the remote start is just a few more extra wires

People always ask, should you use the factory TRANSMITTERS.
We sell systems for that here http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=50

But we always ENCOURAGE NO - you should USE AFTERMARKET REMOTES

Why?

Because they offer LONGER RANGE, more options and the installation is a LOT EASIER.
To interface to the factory remotes, you need to find doorlock wires (usually in the doors), use complex relays and you usually have to push your factory remote (with BAD RANGE) like 3 times in succession! With aftermarket remotes, you PUSH IT ONCE on a dedicated button and it has GREAT RANGE with GREAT DISTANCE.

Also, using the aftermarket remotes is a LOT EASIER INSTALLATION. You just need to interface the LOCK AND UNLOCK wire from the unit to control the locks, much easier than finding factory actuator wires and inverting relays.


MANUAL TRANSMISSION REMOTE STARTS

There are remote start units that we sell which are manual transmission compatible. Only the units marked within the description of the product as MANUAL compatible will work with manual transmissions. Other units are for AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS ONLY

On cars which are set up for manual transmissions, you have to go through an initialization procedure each time you want the start the next time.

You have to

1. While the car is running, Hit the remote on the remote start. The remote start will engage and the car will stay running
2. You turn off the key, the car will STAY RUNNING
3. At this point, the car knows it is in neutral because the car is running and the key is out.
4. You exit the car
5. You arm the alarm system or the system will automatically lock the doors and arm
6. As long as you do NOT open any doors or the hood, it will start the next time.
It is required that you hook up ALL the door triggers, all the trunk triggers and the hood for safety.




*FACTORY IMMOBILIZER BYPASSES AND DATA INTERFACES FOR REMOTE STARTS*
Most late model cars will have a chip built into the key which prevents the car from starting.
You will need a BYPASS to BYPASS this security feature with a remote start

A simple way to do this in SOME cars is to use this
http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=137
with the factory key INSIDE and this will bypass it

SOME CARS will NOT allow you to use this type of bypass (if you have any questions, ask us)

In these cars, you will need a data bypass immobilizer interface
You can find those here http://www.autotoys.com/x/home.php?cat=136

What is IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER with these interfaces is that they ACTUALLY MAKE YOUR INSTALL a LOT EASIER.

For complex cars, such as some late model GM, HONDAS, etc, these data modules will ALSO GIVE YOU door lock wires, tachometer wires, door trigger wires, trunk release wires, and a lot more.

So while you are bypassing the immobilizer, in some applications, it will also give you inputs for doorlocks, etc. So you just make all your connections to the data interface! MAKE INSTALL VERY EASY

Pay attention to the description of the products, it will list what features it supports


IMPORTANT
Keep in mind, when you are buying a DATA INTERFACE from us, we will FLASH the unit to YOUR YEAR, YOUR MANUFACTURER, YOUR MODEL! Some data interfaces require programming. If you buy the interface ANYWHERE else, you will get an interface which is NOT PROGRAMMED and it will not work for you.

WE STOP, WE PROGRAM and then we CUSTOM FILL your order!

*** Also, when you buy from us, we give you FREE TECH SUPPORT in our forums and if you need a TECH SHEET that list all the wire colors for the car (and the locations), we will give that to you FREE!

Any questions? Ask

[autotoys]

Some customers have asked us if they can do a remote start.

If you have some sort of 12 volt installation experience in a car, you should be able to handle it, or if you are handy (some people are, some people are not, you are the best judge for this)

At the basics. You need a few required connections for a remote start

Usually at the column coming from the key switch
12 VOLT CONSTANT
IGNITION (turns on with car in 2nd position key click), usually heater
IGNITION Main (turns on with car in 2nd position and also shows 12 volt in crank)
ACCESSORY, first key switch (some cars, this wire is optional)
START WIRE (this wire will show 12 volts when key is in CRANK)

TACH WIRE : Mainly optional these days, so saves you a wire. Most REMOTE STARTS are TACHLESS now which means a tach wire is usually not needed

BRAKE + wire (this is the +) wire off the BRAKE SWITCH at the brake switch that shows 12 volts when you press the brake pedal

Hood pin (-) so it will not start when the hood is open

and any immobilizer bypass if you need it


THE ABOVE will get your remote start working, it is that simple. And we provide free tech sheets when you buy from us listing wire colors and locations in a car.

OPTIONALLY

You can hook up

Parking lights: So it will flash the lights when remote start engages

DOORLOCKS : So remote will also unlock and lock the door. In most installs, it is 2 wires, one to lock and one to unlock. IN SOME cases, the unlock and lock wires COME from the IMMOBILIZER BYPASS DATA module, so you will hook your remote start doorlock wires right to the bypass (SOME APPLICATIONS ONLY, not all, and usually NEWER CARS with CAN BUSES)

So really, for a remote start its not that many wires to connect.

For a REMOTE START AND ALARM

The EXTRA wires you will need to ADD THE SECURITY of an alarm (consider an ALARM REMOTE START COMBO)

is door pin switches (sometimes off bypass)
Mounting the siren in the hood
and optionally a STARTER KILL

Not that many extra wires

[autotoys]

See this link
http://www.autotoys.com/pics/caralarm-tech-help.png